Boho chic beaches, culinary delights, a paradise for nature lovers.
Puerto Escondido promises to satisfy all five senses, without the price tag of Tulum. At the tip of Mexico’s Oaxacan coast lies a small port town with stunning waves, sun-kissed sand, and a laid-back vibe.
The fish is fresh, the drinks are cheap, and most places can be reached on foot in less than an hour (although when it gets too hot, you might want to pull out your scooter).
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Many of the friendly faces you’ll meet will tell you similar stories about how they were once travelers who moved here permanently after falling in love with mezcal, surfing, their Spanish teacher, or the simple way of life. This mystical place is not a dream. It is Puerto Escondido.
1. Relax on breathtaking beaches
Best known as a surfer’s paradise, Puerto, as it is affectionately known, is quickly becoming a hot spot for tourists, whether they know how to ride the waves or not. Its shining jewel is a 3.5-kilometer stretch of golden coastline called Playa Zicatela. The southern end, including La Punta beach, is the busiest—but thanks to Zicatela’s size, it never feels crowded.
Although it is primarily a beach for surfers, in the evening people gather on the endless palm-lined shores to watch the sun disappear behind a dreamy pastel sky – some of the most beautiful sunsets we have ever seen.
For a quieter swim in the sea, look for Playa Coral – literally off the beaten track, it’s tucked away between Playa Bacocho and Playa Carrizalillo. The quickest and easiest way to get there is via the Hotel Villa Mexicana, for a fee of 50 pesos.
If you enjoy easy city exploration, you’ll also see an abandoned water park on the way to the beach. Rather than being creepy, it adds to the cozy atmosphere of the cove, making it an ideal spot for non-surfers looking for a quiet piece of paradise.
2. Immerse yourself in nature
In addition to the usual ocean snorkeling experiences, in Puerto you can also swim with bioluminescent plankton in the lakes. The plankton glow neon blue when there is movement in the water, but the fuller (and therefore brighter) the moon, the harder they are to see, so check the moon phase before booking.
We visited Laguna de Manialtepec, just 20 minutes from Puerto Escondido. Although it was scary at first to dive into the dark lake, swimming through the glowing plankton that lit up all around us was the closest we’ve ever come to real magic.
Four of the world’s seven species of sea turtles live in Puerto Escondido and come here to lay their eggs all year round. Conservation efforts include tourist experiences of releasing hatched turtles onto the beach while staff fight off predators (the journey to the sea is an essential part of the turtle imprinting process).
The charity Vive Mar has daily releases at 5pm and 7pm. You can’t book in advance, so arrive early to avoid disappointment – cheering on the hatchlings alongside dozens of other nature lovers was a truly spiritual experience.
3. Feed your spirit
It’s no surprise that people in Puerto are laid-back – the town is full of places for different types of yoga, sound baths, and meditation retreats. We took part in an authentic Mexican cacao ceremony, designed to help open your heart, at the Barbarenas holistic center.
Healer Soren Cortés guided us through the process of peeling and grinding our own cacao beans to make ceremonial cacao. Under the stars and around an open fire, we drank the bitter nectar, shared intimate stories with people from all over the world, and felt our souls heal, if only for a moment.
4. Explore the urban jungle
On land, the two largest markets in Puerto Escondido are worth a visit. In the heart of the city lies the Mercado Benito Juarez with a huge variety of traditional foods, clothing and crafts – don’t miss the surprisingly tasty local Oaxacan delicacy “chapulines” (roasted grasshoppers) and watch the singing butcher perform cheerful Mexican tunes alongside huge cuts of meat.
Mercado Zicaleta is a little smaller but just as delightful – don’t miss the range of affordable restaurants with beautiful views of Zicatela Beach, from local street food to a cute French bistro.
5. Delight your taste buds
The Oaxaca region produces 90% of the world’s mezcal, and Puerto Escondido is proud of it. The smoky spirit, made from agave, is never far away, and you can even discover inventive drinks such as Mezcal Bubble Tea at Black Boba bar on Zicaleta.
You can also take part in a fun and informative mezcal tasting at Ruu Piil, the only mezcal producer in Puerto Escondido, which has been a family business for six generations. Not only will you taste a wide variety of different mezcals (served with delicious homemade guacamole and nachos), but you’ll also be taken on an interactive and detailed tour of the distillation process. The mezcals were so delicious that everyone on our tour bought at least one bottle to take home.
Another excellent tasting experience is Chicama, which serves fresh Peruvian food and an amazing selection of ceviche. It’s a must-visit in Playa Zicaleta, and although it’s located across the street from the beach, the soft sand that covers the restaurant’s floor adds to the restaurant’s idyllic atmosphere.
6. Stay in unforgettable surroundings
Puerto Escondido offers a wide range of unforgettable accommodation options to suit all tastes. If you’re looking for unique accommodation that won’t break the bank, we were impressed by the Cabane Container hotel.
With a stunning infinity pool, this set of individual container rooms built on the side of a cliff offers incredible views of the sea. It’s a ten-minute drive to the nearest store, but there’s a fully staffed bar and kitchen—where we had one of the best ceviches we’ve ever tasted.
For a luxurious boutique experience, there’s Casana Sforza, a secluded desert-themed hotel designed by renowned architect Alberto Kalach. With huge brick arches lined with tropical trees and handmade crafts, it’s widely recognized as the “most Instagrammable hotel in Puerto Escondido.”
So much so that they now offer day passes for guests to enjoy the pool and facilities. If you eat at the restaurant, you’ll also be contributing to the owner’s philanthropic efforts to support the indigenous communities of Oaxaca, from the tableware to the ingredients.
7. How to get to Puerto Escondido
The easiest way to get to Puerto Escondido is a short flight from Mexico City, with departures every hour. If you’re already in Oaxaca City, the flight takes 25 minutes—but it can be more expensive as it’s a less popular route. It’s also possible to drive from Oaxaca—an eight-hour scenic route—or take a night bus, which is the best option if you’re on a budget (it’s the cheapest).